Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and visitors alike praising its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, Unesco recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a prestigious roster of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it joins a global network of cities cities across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The honor "demonstrates its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and dynamic gastronomic culture," as stated by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 cities around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this venerable city is no surprise to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, chaotic, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is now in the limelight for what has always characterized its heart: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a constant dialogue from waking up until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and elevated to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, fusing Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases fresh harvests but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on every corner, there are small establishments and kiosks – lesser-known delights that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and demanding. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however express concern that their younger generation do not want to take up the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will motivate more people globally to discover these narratives and travel to the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
